Memory slot updates

I have recieved a few e-mails about the progress since my last post about the Thinkpad T30 memory issues. I went to the electronics workshop to check up what they would charge for resoldering the motherboard slots. Since they have hourly rates around 300 SEK/hour (~32€/hour) the price would land on either 300 or 700 SEK, but they wouldn’t give any warranty for assuring the machine would work afterwards. I felt the price a bit too expensive and didn’t want to risk this machine, not yet at least.

I went home and waited, and finally the new memory slot cover that Lenovo sent me arrived. The new cover is much more rigid than the old one, and has like a square emboss over it. This allowed me to put a few pieces of paper under it to apply pressure on the slots, making them work. This worked for a few days and then it didn’t again. Probably the solderings get worse when I try to do this, so I have stopped applying pressure to the slots. Now there seems to be no solution to the problem of the broken memory slot than to do a real re-soldering.

One finnish guy, Hobbymat, responded to the last post and wrote the following about re-soldering the Thinkpad:

Greetings from Finland! I have repaired a few T20/T30 series Thinkpads using a very fine-tipped soldering iron (a Metcal, a Weller will also do) and a stereo microscope. In my opinion the memory slot repair procedure does and should not need application of any extra solder as mixing different solder metals (conventional tin-lead mixture used in older Thinkpads or lead-free tin-silver-copper solder used in newer Thinkpads) is not recommended, and it is rather difficult to tell which solder has originally been used. Actually the needed amount of solder metal is already there in the joints – the only problem is that there are cracks that do not conduct electricity any more.

However, it is advisable to use liquid soldering flux applied to the solder joints with a small brush or a “flux pen” prior to re-heating and melting of the individual solder joints one by one. The flux penetrates the cracks in the old solder joints and it will help to remove the oxide layer in the crack when the existing solder melts, producing a good-as-new solder joint.

As spotting all the broken memory module slot joints is by far not easy even for a professional with the best available equipment, it’s best to fix all the solder joints if you decide to go that way. There are as many solder joints to “flux and re-solder” as there are pins in a memory module. That is, 144 joints for a T21 or 200 joints for a T30, and you’ll need to double this number if you are going to use a memory module in both slots! But it can be done, given some time and patience.

This repair procedure is suitable for a skilled electronics hobbyist with access to the tools mentioned above. If you don’t have a stereo microscope, you can also use a jeweler’s loupe, good loupe glasses or a very good magnifier for viewing the work area. However, most likely you can’t spot ANY of the micro-fractures of the solder joints unless you have a decent stereo microscope with a magnification between 10X and 40X. Of course, a very steady hand is also needed for this repair job!

Hope this helps someone :)

All I need to find now is a skilled solderer that can do this for some cheap money. Since I now live in Linköping it should not be too difficult to find somebody at the Institute of Technology at which I now am studying.

Please comment if you have ideas or other things to add to the discussion about the Thinkpad T30 memory slot failure.

6 Comments

  1. Posted Saturday, September 15, 2007 at 22:26 | Permalink

    Thanks for the tip. It took me about 10 minutes from start to finish. It’s perfect now. Anyone with a cheap jewler magnifying and a 40 watt fine tip soldering gun can do this repair.

  2. Posted Saturday, September 15, 2007 at 22:28 | Permalink

    btw if you need any help fixing this email me at johnmara_jtag@yahoo.ca

  3. Bill
    Posted Friday, August 15, 2008 at 03:23 | Permalink

    Thanks, i was able to fix my T30! It took me about 25 minutes, i soldered some joints then tried to boot the machine with the memory chip. After a few tries it finally worked. Easy fix if you have a steady hand.

  4. Posted Friday, August 15, 2008 at 06:31 | Permalink

    Bill,

    That’s great news! Any pictures?

    Jonathan

  5. Johnlp
    Posted Saturday, February 7, 2009 at 08:54 | Permalink

    So, I may end up having to do that..

    I have a 1.2ghz T30 that i encountered the problem with about 18 months ago. I shelved it finding it to be unusable, and because I had company issued computers I didn’t have a need for it. On a whim I went searching about the problem yesterday, and found your site, and hope was restored!

    Well, not only was I glad to hear it wasn’t just me, but it was also very encouraging to hear that others had found a solution in a 1gb stick of memory being used in the rear slot. I also greatly appreciated the notice about the shock absorber under the drive bay. I disassembled my laptop (about 30 minutes start to finish, tho I’m a tech), and pulled the blue sponge out. Anyone who tries this, be warned: There are screws that the service manual on IBM’s website doesn’t tell you about. Be gentle.

    So on a hunch, and after hearing that the 1gb stick worked, I wondered if the system would detect /more/ than 1gb. The answer is yes it does. I’m writing this on my T30 with 2gb of PC2700 DDR ram (2x1gb sticks). I picked up 2 sticks from Fry’s today for $30 a piece. You can find them online for about that price. It makes a tremendous difference. The only thing that worried me was moving from post to boot seemed to take a long while. That’s either because the computer was reexamining the memory, or because this drive really is finally dying out.

    I found that the second stick would only detect if pressure was applied – this was true of the 256mb stick I had, and the new 1gb stick. For the short term, I’ve taken a portion of that blue sponge, cut it in half lengthwise, cut it in half again to a 1/4 inch long strip, and then cut that in half from top to bottom. I ended up with about a 2″ by 1/8″ (by 1/8″ to 1/12″) strip that I’ve placed on top of the forward ram chip, between the chip and the cover. The cover (the stock one – i’m going to order the update soon) bulges only slightly, and doesn’t feel excessively hot. The memory has detected fine so far, my only concern is the thermals, although this sponge was riding the circuit board right above the ram for a few years, so my bet is it will hold up.

    I’m now also very concerned that in doing this it’s weakening the solder joints you talk about in this post. If any brave soul (such as your Finnish engineer friend…) could take some demonstration photos of how they fixed it, I’d be greatly appreciative. I don’t have steady hands, and I’m not accustomed to miniature soldering, and would rather not screw this up!

    But – DON’T LET ANYONE TELL YOU IT MAXES OUT AT 1GB! I’m running 2 quite happily!

    Thanks again for all the postings – it’s appreciated and helpful. Good luck.

  6. Tom
    Posted Monday, May 18, 2009 at 10:41 | Permalink

    I have a huge scratch in my only ram slot, its more of a gash, i was woundering if i could solder it back. Would it possible to soulder it back?

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